Beer Review: Duvel Belgian golden ale (updated)

AFTER months of looking at safe old ales, it’s time I did some hard-hitting journalism. In the name of informative and educational writing, I am going to sacrifice good taste, and look into the world, of the super-high-strength lager.

Why am I putting myself through such agony in the name of some reviews for my blog? Well if you live here in the UK, you’ll have noticed something happening recently. That is the flurry of stories about the social irresponsibility of high-strength lagers, and how everyone who drinks them deserves an ASBO. What my earlier review of Tesco Value Lager proved was that it was useless. Unless you wanted a flavoured alternative the water, it was of no threat whatsoever. But where value lagers fell down by being limper than Graham Norton’s wrists, super-strength lagers won’t be. On paper at least. But are they any good?

After enjoying so many quality, full-bodied brews recently, I’m not looking forward to this. What I need is an easy way into this strong, lagery world. And that way, I’m hoping, is Duvel.

At 8.5%, and available from Tesco, this qualifies as a high-strength lager. It should also be an easy way in for someone who prefers a more civilised drink. You see, it’s Belgian. And the last couple of Belgian beers that I’ve tried have been not disappointed. The front label gives a date of 1871, so this has some heritage. Which is good.

It’s also only 330 millilitres. So if it turns out to be revolting, not so much will go to waste. Come to think if it, this is a petite little bottle. Its diminutive stature reminds me a lot of Dragon Stout which comes packed in an equally miniscule bottle.

The front label goes on the mention “High quality” “golden ale” “using the finest malts” and “traditional methods”. All good signs for someone who likes their lagers to in fact be ales. Not sure about the front label though. Despite the coat of arms, almost illegible European typeface and hard to read text, the white background makes it look like an economy specification drink.

Around on the back label, things look a little better.

There’s a photo of what it will look like in the glass. Instructions to pour slowly. A mention of barley and malt ingredients. And the story. Much of which is marketing speak. At the end of which, we learn that this Duvel has been matured for two months. Whether that means this strong lager will be better than the rest, we will find out over the next few days. Now though, it’s time to open the bottle.

For such a tiny bottle, I half considered using a half-pint glass. Good thing I didn’t, because this has the most insane head I’ve every seen.

With the highest head to liquid content ever witnessed, barely half the bottle made it in, before the head reached the top. And that was with pouring it at, what I thought, was a slow and careful pace. How slow and careful are you supposed to pour it?

One thing that surprised me was the smell. I was hoping this would make it intact. That unbeatable smell that the other Belgian beers like Leffe and Hoegaarden have is in this lager. If like me, you adore that smell, then you’ll be as surprised as I was to find it in this lager too.

On the first gulp, the first taste that hits you is the lager one. Yes, this is unmistakably lager. A good thing, since nowhere on the label does it say “lager”. I just assumed that it was. Yet that sharp bitter taste is definitely there. But Duvel comes in with something different for an aftertaste. And that different thing is malt. In the same way that Leffe and Hoegaarden use malt to great effect, this does too.

Duvel is turning out to be much what I hoped it would be. A quality, malty Belgian that packs a violent punch. Unfortunately, it is also a very gassy Belgian. Not surprising when you see the head. When you drink it, it feels much like drinking a lager version of a Cadbury’s Aero bar. Or even a Polo mint. Only in lager form, you end up burping.

After the head died down enough to drink, I began to enjoy what Duvel is all about. If you like malty Belgian, you’ll like this. If you like lagers, you’ll be interested in this. If you like getting drunk quickly, you’ll like this. If you like getting drunk cheaply, you won’t like this. Because Duvel is an expensive super strong lager. And these reasons are what makes this stand out. It is a very good drink, but only for special occasions. And that stops it from becoming a social menace that will ruin the nation.

Rating: 3.8

Have you tried Duvel? What did you think of it?
Do you have any suggestions of your own for what I should try next?
Comments below, please.

UPDATE: I’ve been rumbled. That’s right. I am NOT a beer or ale expert. I simply enjoy drinking them and writing entertaining articles. If anyone likes what I write and how it’s written, then my job is done. It looks like a made the wrong call with Duvel. Thanks to Hans for pointing that out. Duvel is an ale and not a lager. No idea why I assumed otherwise. It is still delicious however, and highly recommend it. Thanks for reading and commenting!

Tags: beer, Belgian, belgium, duvel, lager, review